Kotli and Nikyal Sector

From 20th July to 10th August 2015 I toured Azad Kashmir.

From Islamabad I reached Kotli in five hours by a Hi Ace.

Kotli an important Urban center of Kashmir 

Kotli is a large prosperous town surrounded by River Pooch from three sides and large mountains on one side was hot at that time. Its major sources of wealth and cashflow is said to be remittances sent by overseas workers. After checking in a modest Hotel near the Bus stop I walked up to the River and found it beautiful as the Sun set over the Mountain.Water was clean and cold.

After dinner I walked through the Town and found that it was a substantial market town with streets after streets of well stocked whole sale and retail shops.I found most Banks present with ATMs working fine.I also spotted many more hotels of all quality.

The town is abode of peace and harmony and thus strolling upto late at night posed no danger and thus I roamed around most of the town in about two hours.

Nikyal Sector scene of many clashes with India

Next day I decided to go the Nikyal Sector a boarder Town located up in 4,000 ft plus mountains.I was told by the host Hotel owner that there are no hotels in Nikyal and therefore I should not leave hotel and come back after a day trip.However I took the risk and went up with my bag.On reaching I found that a hotel by name of Lasani exist but finding it was proving difficult as there are no rickshaws in this town only inter town Buses provide transport.I took refuge in a Restaurant.There I met a young man from Education department and he offered to take me home in near that Shrine of Mora Sharif.When I refused he suggested that I stay in the Shrine itself which has large lodging facilities for visitors from all over.He informed that I could live there for as long as I want free of cost.He further informed three meals are served daily for visitors free of cost.

Thanking him I moved on and found Lasani which was a decent Restaurant with number of residential rooms located in a building facing the valley below.Room with a view was so good that I decided to stay three nights in this cool paradise with amazing views all around. 

Mora Sharif Shrines 

Next mourning after heavy Biyrani breakfast I decided to go to Mora Sharif by Hi Ace.The drive up and down the Mountain was very nice as cool breeze swept my face.One after another valley led us to a remarkable spot with long view of valley below dominated by a large mosque next to Shrine. There were not many visitors at the Shrine when I reached it by 11pm. However the complex had 5 large rooms with pillows and eating utensils for visitors stay.There was also a big Kitchen where large Daghs were being cooked for visitors.There was big dinning area.After Fathia at the Shrine as I was leaving I was asked by the caretaker to have some food from the Langer (free food),I told him I was full but he insisted and asked his assistant to take me along. I obliged by eating half of what was given.

The other visitors informed me that there was another big Shrine nearby where 40th celebration was going on.They invited me to join.So I went along with them.As we were nearing the Shrine by foot heavy rain fall deranged us as there was no hiding place.When we reached the Shrine we were all wet.Even in this condition the care taker of the Shrine who was surrounded by many women and men seeking his blessings spotted me and invited me to his bed and asked me where I was from.On hearing that I came all the way from Karachi he announced this to his followers.He informed that his grandfather was buried in the tomb near by and that I could offer Fatiha I wished.I offered Fatiha and on my return the care taker insisted that I eat Langer.I resisted but finally agreed to eat one fourth of what was given.Needless to so I was overwhelmed by the hospitality and generosity of this place.During all my travel across the Globe I never had such offer of free extended boarding and lodging.

Murgan and Karela on road to Samror:

Next day I walked towards the border area and after crossing on after the other beautiful valley Margan located some 20 Km away on the road to Kotli via Samror. The walk was like through an extended garden carefully decorated by ALLAH.I tried to stop at every turn to return but anticipation of yet another remarkable scene propelled me go on effortlessly without any pain. The point were I had tea and waited for bus to go back was relatively low land and small river flowed below.I was told that border was just nearby passing in zigzag manner over the mountains in front of us. However I could not see any fence.

"Bungh in abundance but no takers:

Near the Tea shop there was large area full of bushes. I inquiry I was told that it "Bungh" which is an intoxicant which grows in large quantity all over Kashmir and upper Punjab.As devote Muslims Kashmirs do not take "Bungh"and burn the bushes when it dries.On my return from Murjan I took a bus trip up the steep mountain near the town. As this was the main military area security in this area was very tight. I went past the military region to villages located very close to the border. I was told that at night Indians put on lot of light along the fences and border can be easily seen.However I could not see any border fences and had to returned before dark.

Vulnerability by Indian fire and Jihad by Punjabi Wahabis:

I was told that Mora sharif,Murgan being on lower elevations were subject to regular Indian bombardment while occasionally Nikyal town is also hit.I was told by locals that Mujahideen from Gugrat come to Nikyal on regular basis and cross over to wage Jihad and kill Indian soldiers in retaliation the Indians hit back.Why I asked about Kashmiri fighters they said they were peace loving Bralvi and Naskhbandi Muslim and do not believe in Jihad.There struggle for free Kashmir was a political one and they hope it will be realized soon on the basis of Musharraf-Mohan understanding.