From Muzaffarabad I took a bus north to Neelum valley the northern most District of Azad Kashmir.As we gradually rose over the towering mountains it got cooler and scenic.
Important military installations lay on this road plus number of small towns which can be termed as Tourist spots.
Before we reached important old pedestrian crossing of Titwal, we came across a huge construction site. I was told that this was part of Neelum-Jhehlem project.At this point a dam is being built on Neelum to divert water through a 64km long tunnel to Muzafferabad.Water falling for great height will generate part of 950mv electricity which this project promise to generate.This engineering marvel is being executed by a Chines Co.
Beyond Titwal the Neelum River become the Border between Azad and Occupied Kashmir. This extends up to Dorian passing Karna.
The bus terminated at Athmaqum the Head Quarter of Neelum District.Large District hospital and other Govt offices are located in this Town.It also has number of low grade hotels.Neelum flow near it but due to buildup area the view is not clear.
Therefore I decided go to Karna 6km away on a car.On the way I came across a number of Resorts,Guest houses of better quality.
However in Karna I came across a Guest house named Poulusha which I liked and checked in. After some time I realised that I was standing out in my red t shirt just in the gaze of Indian Army just few hundred feet across the small easily swimmable Neelum.I was told not to worry as there has been no incident of firing in this area for last twenty years.This was strange after listening to stories of so much firing in Nikyal Sector near Kotli.
The beauty of this Area and calm and tranquility was overwhelming. Gradually the Guest house started to fill as evening approached.I befriended a new couple who had hired a jeep to travel upto end of the valley far away.They urged me to go further for better view.However I was happy with the coolness and views of the spot and decided to stay put.
Behind Karna up high in the mountain lay the famous village of Neelum from the district name is derived.It is reported very beautiful with a lake in the center.It is about hour drive from Karna.
The night I spent in Karna was one of the best night of my life.Dim lights on the Indian side of Border contracted against bright and colorful lights on the Pakistan.The Indian side was mostly empty with decaying tin roofs and shabby houses.Yet grazing cows and goats with their minders could be seen.Often people from other side would wave to you.I was told that divided families live on both side of border.So no one had any aggressive feeling about people on the other side.I was told that the population in other side was exclusively Muslim.
I felt proud to be part of a Nation who invest so much in such dangerous place.A stroll along the River revealed lot of young tourists in groups of 8-12 who had ventured to rent Camps outside the Guest Houses.Most Guest Houses including mine were filled by night.The smoke rising from Bar B Cue sites in Guest Houses plus the aroma ignited appetite and I eat to my fill.
Next morning I started to walk along the River and kept walking as each turn revealed a new better view.I took rest at a Restaurant in Chunar Pura village.Here I eat bread made of corn which is grown in small farms in the Area and which is milled in water driven mills down stream.
Further up the road came closer to the River and the valley narrowed.At a turning point the River became very narrow and had large boulders in between.Crossing this point and entering the thick forest in front seemed like a piece of cake.However I was told entire Area was very closely watched and no crossing attempts are made.
Further up the road started to move away from the River and soon I was in the village of Dorian.This was small commercial center with some restaurants and shops.Also starting point of Buses to Athmaqam.I boarded a Bus and reached my guests.
This walk and my talk with locals will always remain my good memory of life.When I get time I shall return to this place for extended stay with family.
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