Great three days escape to Fort Munro

 

Fort Munro: The Hill Station of Southern Punjab

By Tarique Khan Javed, President,OPIF

With load sheding at its peaks and temperature reaching 50c it was difficult to stay in the plains of Southern Punjab on 3rd June  2013. So from Mahmud Kot I decided to go to Fort Munro some 200km away. I was sure that mountain range with a peak of 6,457 ft will be much cooler. 

Driving through Sanawa,  Dera Ghazi Khan by pass and  passing the Airport and Ghazi Taractor factory  we reached the Mountain foot at famed Sakhi Sarwar (the generous Saint of Multan). The plains were very hot and dry and  as we approached Sakhi Sarwar the atmosphere became very dusty due to presence of large number of Crushers, processing the stones carried by Mountain river which touch the plains just behind the Shrine. 

  First Day:

Pass the dusty and unbearably hot patch as the road started to ascent air got clearer and temperature started to decrease. After passing big river bed and difficult drive rood started to twist and turn to gain height and suddenly we found ourselves surrounded by very high green mountains.Each scene was worth photographing but a cautioned my campainions to save space to much better scenery waiting further up. The pleasent drive brought us to Town of KHAR on the main road to Baluchistan. A decend from this point brings to platues of Baluchistan (guess around 4,000 ft) with its first town RAKNI. In the past I had passed this point several time on my way to Kholu and Loralia.

The drive from KHAR probably at height of 5000 feet to summit of Fort Munro touching 6,457, 5km away,  was breath taking. After passing some farmland and a crowded bazaaz we started climbing a steep road with high peaks visable due the cone like shape of this mountain.Looking down at the winding road provided best photo opportunity. Finally we reached a cross road where on road went up towards the peak while the other went down towards Anari valley and its adjoining mountains. We decided to proceed up and reached the main Bazaar and found a decent hotel at probably height of 6,000 with a claer view of the valley and lake below. While weather had become enjoyable during the drive the strong cool breeze in the vavanda of the hotel at noon time was some cold that we started to worry about health of childen at night,as we did not come with an warm cloth. The rooms had blanket and after closing the windows spending night was not difficult.

A walk around the peak was very pleasent with good view of Southern valley with large houses and some villages and terrace farming. The Area had colonial era banglows which were not in use.A walk up the steep road towards the peak was not easy for children yet most rewarding for them after they reached the park at the peak.The park at the peak with view on three side was fitted with lots of swings and slides and had number of small shops selling drinks and children refreshments. This spot was photographers paradise with view extending to Baluchistan and surrounding high mountians obstructing view towards Punjab but with worth photographing views of valley, lake and waterfall below. As darkness fell the lights below gave the valleys different glamorous look. The best lighting were of the hotels who had decorated the outside and roofs to attract customers. 

Second Day

Next day we walked deep into the Southern Valley and had great fun with lot of photo oppurtunities. The facing mountains appeared very close and tempting but infact they were very far as we approched towards them. The walk became streanus when we had to climp back yet it was worth the effort as we saw such beauty which we would not have seen if we stuck to the main road. 

The second day of stay was relectivly not that cold during the day; however by evening it attacted huge cloud formation. Our time spent at the peak that evening  was memorable. We could see that it was raining in Baluchistan side and we felt that rain would start anytime, however it did not and clouds cleared by late night.With cold breeze and overcast sky the atmosphere was romantic indeed.

We had dinner at a resturant which had arranged Live mestic music in the form of singer from Multan. He rendered Bhula Shah and Khawja Farid poetry in such devotional style and the audiance was spell bounded.

Third Day:

On the third day of our visit we decided to walk down towards the Anari valley. Decending road was dotted by large number of hotels, some basic some of high quality offering good view of the valley below. A PTDC hotel was located next to a Lake and offered double room with Tv for Rs 2,000 per night. Other hotels in ranged from Rs 300 to 1,500. We reached a point where a Housing scheme was offer plots. Some houses constructed on the steep decline looked odd with one side facing the mountain high while the side facing valley low. Stepped rooms were constructed to avoid huge filling cost. Past the scheme we reached the Lake next to the fall and end of the valley. The lake was formed by constructing a small retaing wall. Water exceeding the wall level reaches the water fall where from water fall some 300 feet below before being swept away. With limited water in the Lake the waterfall was dry. It was being using a firing range. Two locals with their Kalashnikov were inciting people to fire at target they had set some 2000 feet away at a cost of Rs 150 per shout. I shot at one target but missed the other four but not far from the target. Locals assumed I was from Armed forces. 

Drive back with prospect of return to the plain was quite and somber but was also result of the tiredness of the walk some 1000 feet down from our hotel. Back in our so called "Alishan" hotel (costed us Rs 1,500 per night for two rooms with attached bath room) we packed and drove back. I could only afford to stay one night at Mahmud Kot and ran away to more pleasant weather of Karachi.         

Travel Trips:

Going and coming from place like Mahmud Kot to Fort Munru on private van for 2 nights and 3 days cost around Rs 12,000. However the same trip done on public transport would cost just 330 per person. From DGK just for Rs 200 Hi Ace brings visitors to Bazar some 100Km away to the height of 6,000 feet. With plenty of restaurants selling Sajji, Chicken Karhai at almost same price as in the plains the trip is very affordable. Even a room costing Rs 400 will have two double mattress and attach back and good view. 

FATA UPDATE: KHURRAM,ORAKZIA,MAHMUND AND BAJOUR

 

An extended Pakistan has come into existence:

Last year I, managed to go to South Waziristan and Khyber agencies of FATA and wrote extensively on condition there. Attempt to go to North Waziristan did not succeed due to complete ban; although I tried to go there via Bunnu as well as Thul. From 28th May to 2nd June 2013, I visited Khurram,Orakzia,Mahmund and Bajour. Here is an account of these visits:

 Khurram Agency via Orakzai: 

Tale of Sadda and Parachinar:

Hi Ace from Peshawar's Kohat stand took 5 hours to reach SADDA,a major town of Khurram agency via Kohat,Hungu,Doabba,Thul, Alizia. SADDA a bazaar Town is stronghold of SSP and Sunni tribes living in valley from Thul to this point often block the road to Parachinar which is stronghold of Shia tribes. The animosity seems to be complete. Shias are afraid of crossing the Sunni belt while Sunni dare not cross the river to Parachinar the pride of Khurram. 

Sunnis particularly Mangel Tribe members claim that 5% Sunni population in Parachinar was ethnically cleansed and now  not a single Sunni live in Parachinar. I was advised that I should not travel to Parachinar as I was a  Sunni. 

I took their advise and stayed put in Sadda on 28th, but on 29th I noticed that a large number of trucks crossed the River in the morning. Thus in mid day I boarded a shared taxi to Parachinar. Three of my co travellers were Shias who got down on the way, while I and another passenger reached outside Parachinar when FC stopped us and told as to go back as entire Parachinar was under a 72 hours Curfew. About 20 trucks which had passed through Sadda in the morning were stranded at the Check post. No one was allowed in or out. My mobile SIM was blocked when I reached near Parachinar and remained blocked for next 24 hours.

Sadda itself is a piece of Land which has emerged due to silting process. A walk through the fields and riverbank gave a sense of how very small farms are curved out of River bank by making barriers in which the silt gathers and after few months a small farm comes into existence. The endurance and hard work of these farmers is worth praise. With these farms they just earn a basic livilihood but work far more than their counterparts in the plain. One interesting fact that I noticed was that throughout such Regions, smaller tractors with thrashers were in use for harvesting wheat. Step Farms as small as 100-200 yards were being serviced by these machines available on rent on hourly basis. Implying that in this age of Commercial availability of such machine old arguments of having very large farms to be viable is no more valid, thus suggestions of redistribution of Land in plains even to the extent of say 2 acres per family to eliminate poverty may be considered.    

Northern Valleys:

On 30th I took a Taxi to reach Northern Valleys. Civil Hospital and Govt.Schools were located on this road. Massive tent city was also located on this road. The road reached a large lush green mountain and took a turn towards the river and then twisted and turned through one of the most beautiful valley I have ever visited. The big and small trees on the mountains has special shades of green ranging from almost dark to very light. Next to river very small farms were curved out on which only subsistence level farming could take place. 

Plight of Refugees:  

Near HUNGU and SADDA I saw very large refugee camps having camps in thousands.I was told these camps house the displaced tribes as their territory is combed by Military. Under the FC law tribes whose members are found to be involved in terrorist activities or giving shelter to terrorists are collectively punished by uprooting from the homes and forced to live in such camps for years.
Since the start of Rahe Najat in 2010,all across FATA many tribes are living in these conditions.Among all tribes that has suffered in this manner since 2010,Mahsud tribe stands out.As a result of glory and limelight of few like Baitulllah or Hakiullah Mahsud, the entire tribe is living life or normads in Camps near Tank or other towns. Wazirs took advantage and brandished them from South Waziristan.

Jubilation at Political activities

The road was full of banners of different parties as election was postponed in the Area. Besides JUI other parties like JI,PTI and PML N were well represented in the banners. Quite deep in the valley were advised by FC to go back as going further was not safe as military action was going on to take control of remaining peaks.

Scientific border and Military situation:  

White snow covered mountains beyond Parachinar formed the border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. The high mountain extending close to Torkham and encompasing the western and northern border of Khurram agency and part of Orakzai and Khyber. This is a massive barrier  ,not surmountable by any force. Part of the scientific border created by British. Thus relative low mountains towards Tirah valley and Thorkham are important for terrorist going to Afghanistan. That what makes SADDA so important from Military point of view. It is through here that Military has launched major flanking attack on terrorists in Tirah velley and captured most Western  peaks thus blocking their escape route to Afghanistan.

Hold of Armed Forces on Khurram and Orakzai Agencies:

With a big Army Cantonment at Thul and substantial  FC bases in Alizai and Sadda supported by Khurram Malitia with check point on each important turns the Area seemed to be in full control of armed forces. Local tribes seems disciplined and humbled. One by one taking out tribes and their extended exile from home have made them realize that there is no more point of resisting one of the biggest Army of the World. Shia Sunni conflict has helped them consolidate in Khurram and Orakzia Agency. 

MAHMUND AND BAJOUR AGENCIES:

On 1st June from Charsada stand of Peshawar, it just took 2.5 hours to reach KHAR the center of Bajour agency via Mahmund agency. Drive through farm land and over the Kabul and Swat river gradually brought us the foot of barren and dull mountains of Mahmund. At the Gate of Agency I was asked why I was going to Mahmund by FC personnel. I informed that as a businessman I wish to explore the market and business prospect.After that at number of Check posts mostly manned by Militia I was not asked to show ID but a young Madarsa student (Talib) sitting next to me attracted attention and had to satisfy queries. Hi Ace twisted and turned through sparsely populated areas as we gained height. 

I was told that the road we were travelling on was very close to the border with Afghanistan also that the mountain visible on the left of the road was the border on which in 2011 NATO forces attacked Salala Check post killing 11 Pakistani soldiers. We reached a point were a large Malitia Fort existed and in front of a large market lay raised to the ground. I was told that market was demolished by armed forces as collective punishment. 

The drive through barren mountains ended as we entered the territory of Bajour Agency. As we drove further north maintains become greener and more populated. KHAR the principle Town of Bajour and main market of Mehmund and Bajour was very basic. But it had few banks and agencies. 

From KHAR I decided to go to Mardan via Lower Die instead of returning to Peshawar. This road was better but quite a longer route. It takes 4 hours to reach Peshawar by this route. However the extended travel was worth it because it passed through beautiful valleys and scenic mountains. As we descended towards Dir more populated villages and towns passed by till we reached the main road connecting Chitral and Malakand.  

Hold of Armed Forces on Mehmund and Bajour agencies:

Like Orakzia and Khurram our Armed Forces hold of much smaller Agencies of Mehmund and Bajour is complete. Since 2010 one by one rebellious tribes have been managed and now writ of the State is well established. The Local Malitia and FC supported take care of the Law and order while Army remains aloof. One can comfortably travel to the agencies and trade.The only requirement is original CNIC. With the introduction of Political Party act the people of the Area now feel much closure to Pakistan. Everyone I met favoured full incorporation of the Agencies into Pakistan proper as Districts of KP. They wish to see and end of medieval FC laws scarped and Local Jirgas and Maliks removed. They wish to see proper Courts and Land Registries established and full implementation of Pakistani Laws. 

Conclusion and Recommendation:

Rah e Nigat operation started in Oct 2010 has been the most productive Military operation of Pakistan. It was expanded Pakistan territory and brought major relief to people of FATA after being neglected since 1947. The operation has brought in good roads to nook and corner of the Area and with better Law and order, businesses are coming to the Region. The markets are full of goods and price differences are normal based on transport cost. Huge business opportunity existing in providing Madical services,Education and training, entertainment and construction. Businessman are advised to visit the Region and take part in economic development. US Aid is playing a good role here and other NGOs are requested to be active in the Region.